Scion of the royal Hutheesing family, Umang Hutheesing, 48 heads Hutheesing Design Company (HDC) which was established in 1881 by their ancestor Magganbhai . According to Hutheesing, it was the first ever design firm in India to have partnered with the American designer Louis C. Tiffany. As a design consultant and revivalist he has worked with leading foreign luxury brands such as Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. The Hutheesing family is hailed for providing patronage and employment to local artisans and preserving ancient crafts and textiles.
Hutheesing studied at Babson College, USA and also hold a Diploma in Banking from Japan but says design has come to him as an inheritance. He infuses his work with the experience and lineage he comes from, his latest collection 'The Ethereal Princess' was a tribute to Queen Elizabeth II which he presented at the Buckingham Palace in July, 2013."
The delicacy and regality of this Ethereal Rose Garden has been transformed intoa collection of limited edition bridal wear, saris, lehengas, anarkalis, sherwanis and bandgalas. "I'm quite old-fashioned. I like the classical and traditional," says Hutheesing. "There is a niche market for those who love what is culturally ours and I continue designing for that rich elegance. He is from that school of thought that never follows trends and sticks to his lineage. Tel 9722525566
Crafts meets contemporary Rini Vakil
When you have a Patan Patola in your neighbourhood why go for haute couture from Paris? This is the strong belief with which Rini Vakil, 27, started her label in 2011. A graduate from National Institute of Design, Gandhinagar she grew up exploring the local art forms from the interiors of India. Her latest collection called 'Check Mate' shows a fearless use of geometric patterns on asymmetric designs. There is a rural edge in her work that is combined with the modern style.
Imagine a vibrant cocktail dress in lehriya-dyed' fabric or a palazzo pant in khadi cotton, even a poncho-style tunic with trademark marodi work. Vakil combines traditional woven fabrics like tussar silk from Bhagalpur or mashru from Patan with tribal arts like Madhubani, warli, and applique.The essence of this label lies in reviving fading art forms of Indian craftsmanship, into contemporary sensibilities. She has a knack for reinventing original techniques and transforming them into couture styles. For the ones who believe in old world charm she recommends going for the statement neckpieces and chunky earrings.
Inspiration: Get over the neon phase in the market and try something new that gives a boho-chic feel. Earthy tones are best, with splashes of orange, green, and magenta. Skirts and flowy shirts are good, but you don't have to wear baggy clothes to be Boho. Tel: 9879007570
Travel Inspired Swati Goradia
"Just serendipity, a fortunate accident," is how Vadodara based Swati Goradia, 29, describes her foray into the fashion world. Inspired by all things hand crafted, her label 'Sartorial' was launched in early 2013. Goradia experiments with fabrics such as organza, moonga and matka silks while marrying international cuts with Indian embroidery. Reversible jackets that can be worn with both on traditional as well as modern outfits are her USP. Tennis player Sania Mirza is among her many patrons.
The journey Goradia lived in Vienna as an exchange student and worked for a while in , Amsterdam and Stockholm and travelled across the world, from the Tahiti to the Italian Riviera in Cinque Terre. However, little did she know at that time, that the memories of these journeys would re-emerge in her avatar as a creator of fashion. "My travels taught me that every country's traditions are reinforced by the way people dress, and that there was no better way to immerse oneself in a new culture than to browse through the streets and local boutique," she says.
Trend Watch Minimalist is the way, scan your mother's closet for sarees. You can recycle them into jackets, stoles and lehengas. Invest in good craftsmanship, use vintage jewellry to add a twist to your everyday wardrobe. Tel 9714777714
Creative Contrasts Siddhi Shah
Working for seven years as an architect and then switching to designing clothes may have raised many eyebrows but Siddhi Shah, 26, is in her happy place finally. Shah graduated from CEPT University Ahmedabad, followed by a course in fashion designing from NIFT, Gandhinagar but only found her true calling in fashion one year ago when she launched her label 'Tussah'.
Shah gives her clothes a colourful twist but yet keeps things simple, "jazzy outfits can over shadow the natural charm of the wearer." She would rather play with colours to elevates her designs, for her sarees will have colourful stripesbordering a beige base, and will be matched with a contrasting floral print blouse. She also makes lehengas withapplique work which mimics the famed Gujarati mirror work.
Trend watch Shun glitters and choose unique colours instead. Digital prints on sarees and kurta's, has really caught on too. I recommend wearing one traditional thing and pairing itwith a modern one. Try a Kutchi embroidered top with denim shorts, or a knee length ethnic skirt with a light printed kurta. Tel 9913645512
The Wedding Look Kasheesh and Anuraag
Passion is the only thing that drives Ahmedabad-based Kasheesh, 28 and Anuraag 25, to design. They are hailed as trendsetters especially for outfits that debut at a big fat Gujarati wedding. The designer duo started their label 'Zubbaa' in 2009 and are infuse a typical wedding trousseau with bold designs and cuts to make it stand out.
"India has really evolved in terms of fashion and also bridal couture," says Kasheesh. Rajasthani kalis, backless cholis and stiff collars on saree blouses along with a Bollywood-inspired look are a part of their collection. According to her, till a decade ago people sought the classics: sari, lehenga choli, salwar kameez, Kanjeevarams, Gujarati red and white Panetar, but now they are going for heavier zardozi and dabka embroidery on silk brocade and even an Indo-Western look which is a jumble of everything."People are also opting for lesser known weaves such as the beautiful dhoop-chaon Banarasi silk, golden Pochampalli weaves, Gujarat Pitambari and Patolas are also a part of the new bridal trousseau," adds Anuraag.
Inspiration Drape your sarees in quirky styles, go for a zardosi corset blouse and a tulle veil in the same colour. An all purpose wrap dress gives women an easyday-to-night option, but make sure you have at least fourin different patterns. Emerald green and whites are back for both Western and traditional garments. Tel 8980606010
Innovate and Update Avami Bhansali
Fashion store Avakasa, launched in June this year by designer sisters Avani, 29 and Pooja Bhansali, 27, stocks close to 30 designers from across India and is also home to exclusive jewellry from Outhouse,luxury couture bags and designer footwear. While the store finds an array of designer's collection, the sisters feel that the fashion scene in Gujarat is still indecisive whether it's inclined towards modern or traditional.
"People have started experimenting in Gujarat andit is evident from the fact that they don't shy away from flaunting the season's flavour ' neon colours," says Avani. With Navratri round the corner, Avani has designed a collection of lehengas in neon shades of orange, pink and green but balances it with accents in muted colours. Her take on Indian wear is a blend of cultures, from jacket anarkalis in Gaji silks to peplum-style kurtis, from jumpsuits with digital prints to translucent georgette and chiffon.
Inspiration This season you will see the traditional oxidised jewellry vanishing, and chaniya cholis will also be shown the door. Innovate and spruce up your wardrobe, for example embellish shirt collars with stone stickers, stitch two dupattas to be worn as a kaftan. Experiment with bold pinks and blood red lipstick. Tel 7567370155
The Revivalists Vraj:Bhoomi
Though Bhoomi Dani, 28, and Rajvi Merchant, 27, had started the label Vraj:Bhoomi in 2011 and they re-launched it this year. While Rajvi has no design background but a keen aesthetic sense, Bhoomi the creative mind behind the label is a graduate from NIFT, Gandhinagar. At Vraj:Bhoomi, the duo is trying to revive the traditional textile crafts of Gujarat and found their interest in the ancient block printing technique of Ajrakh, an art that shares a common link with the states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Sind now in Pakistan.
Their block printed line includes T-shirts, kaftans, tunics, scarf, stoles and even footwear. They have experimented with unique colour combinations such as powder blue and red, yellow and brown, and indigo and orange. For the nextseason, Bhoomi is designing a double textured shawl with a wool and ajrakh printed cotton.
Inspiration Natural fabrics of Gujarat and techniques that are still practiced in the villages of Kutch. Tip Printed pants, and pants with a lot of fabric on the hip are great. a top , along with loose pants. Trend Watch Palazzo pants, peplums, vests and kaftans will return, also flat footwear like
Ballerinas and flip flops are here to stay. "We like adding accessories such as tassels on the edges of our colourful stoles, you can wear it over regular jeans teamed with a while T-shirt," she says. Tel 9825
